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  • Gulmarg: Altitude & Attitude

    Gulmarg: Altitude & Attitude

    Gulmarg means “Meadow of Flowers.” This is a charmingly poetic name that fails to mention several other notable features of the place: military checkpoints,…

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  • Two Days in Srinagar

    Two Days in Srinagar

    Day 1: Welcome to Kashmir We landed in Srinagar to find our chariot for the trip: a 15-seater van, procured for exactly four passengers.…

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  • The Srinagar Trip That Almost Wasn’t

    The Srinagar Trip That Almost Wasn’t

    Some trips have a story. Ours has a saga — with a cast of characters, several plot twists, and a mysterious VIP who may…

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